> alpine climbing

arête Tronchey des Grandes Jorasses, Chamonix, France

An unknown, thus rarely repeated, but exceptional fine ridge climb up the italian side of the Grandes Jorasses. From the scramble up to the remote bivy shelter (1600m up), as for the route (another 1000m of UIAA IV/V) and the long descend back to the car (all the 2600m): this is true alpinism

tournier pillar des Droites, Chamonix, France

A striking direct line on the huge wall of the Droites north face. We covered the 1200 metres in two days, freeclimbing on classic mountaineering boots with sections up to UIAA V+. The descent was horribly out of condition, and so added an extra alpine challange.

the Devies-Gervasutti on the Ailefroide, Ecrins, France

For some this route is definately the most impressive climb in the entire region, because of its direct assault to the top. Mark and I climbed as fast as we could, but at the grey slabs after the main pillar ice tuned in, transforming the relative easy terrain into delicate scrambling. We were forced to bivy, only two pitches from the top. The route is graded french TD+ 1050m IV/V.

A selection of challenging alpine ascents accomplished before my exceptional BIG accident:

Scheidegg Wetterhorn, Bernese Oberland, Switserland

A 1000 metre NW pillar, directly starting from the meadows above Grindelwald. The mountain looks great and impressive, the route is certainly not. This stack of crumbly rock is mostly graded UIAA V, with several sections VI.